The Return to the Shrines At Uch Shariff

G’day all. The exploration of Pakistan continues today with a post about the incredible Sufi (a sect of Islam) shrines at the small town of Uch Shariff in Southern Punjab, Pakistan. Uch (as the town is also more simply known is around 80km from Bahawalpur where I was staying and took around 90 minutes to reach or perhaps slightly more. I visited in 2004 but sadly all I have to remember the visit was a small handful of photos so when I went earlier this year I was determined to document more thoroughly.

Going on a half-day trip from Bahawalpur with a guide was a good option. In 2004 I went from Multan by public transport in mini-vans which certainly was a great adventure, but travel in this part of Pakistan is not so free for the foreigner today, as you need a guide and security – that’s as a governmental requirement, I don’t feel security was necessary but at the end of the day, I don’t know exactly what could have happened and it didn’t interfere in my day, or indeed cost any money.

Uch is a very rural town and at the time, February this year, was actually quite green and we were able to drive up to the entrance to the shrines. The main shrine/tomb of the complex is the Tomb of Bibi Jawindi. However you don’t just walk up to this particular shrine, the biggest of the three standing in a graveyard.

Outside a set of steps leading up to the tombs and more are some makeshift shops and I think it was here I paid to go in. Then up the stairs to a courtyard and an entrance to this building which turned out to be an indoor graveyard.

Inside the most prominent shrine/tomb is that of Syed Jalal-ud-Din Surkhposh Bukhari, inside the sort of glass case. A man was guarding/looking after his tomb and gave me a lei (for want of a better term) of flowers and asked me for a donation. Can’t remember what he asked but it wasn’t a significant amount! He apparently came from Bukhara, Uzbekistan and was a follower of another holy man.

This building is lowly lit and atmospheric, dare I say it even a little bit spooky. We exited from the far side back outside and then a short walk uphill through a gate into the main outdoor cemetery where the three main structures stand. None of them have escaped the ravages of time and are fully standing.

The largest is the Tomb of Jawindi Bibi. From the right angle you might think the shrine, dating from the 15th century was still fully standing, however half of it is missing. Time has eroded the tomb and in particular major floods in 1817.

There are three structures here, three shrines, the one for Jawindi Bibi is the one furthest up the hill. From the far side of this tomb you can stand and take in an incredible view of the surrounding land for miles and miles.

The second, or middle shrine is the Shrine of Baha’al Halim, which hasn’t stood up to the test of time as well as Jawindi Bibi’s tomb, the third tomb, the lowest of the three is the Shrine of Nuriya and that is basically just a wall. However this one does have a doorway that at the right angle gives a great view for a photography of the tomb of Jawindi Bibi. These two were built between the 14th and 16th centuries.

Standing there and looking at these monuments to time (and women) is an awe-inspiring experience and at times it was quite peaceful. There may not be that much more I can write about it, but boy there are images I have I will never forget. It’s also in this town quite a way from Bahawalpur, Multan or any big city. A very special spot.

Thanks for popping by today. Don’t forget to like and comment if the mood takes you. Take care wherever you are in the world – May the Journey Never End!

14 thoughts on “The Return to the Shrines At Uch Shariff

  1. More interesting archeological sites dotted in the North (from Islamabad/ Rawalpindi) like Taxila, Suvat (Swat), Rohtas Fort, and more. Mid October is the best tie to visit in the mountains draped in the hues of autumn – not to miss. Happy travels. Should you need any assistance, my Mobile/ WhatsApp: +92-300 5069 736.

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.